What to see in El Escorial (San Lorenzo): the monastery, the royal lodges and the mountains

The first thing to see in San Lorenzo de El Escorial is the Royal Monastery, built on the orders of Philip II and a UNESCO World Heritage Site: its basilica, the Royal Pantheon, the Royal Library and the palaces of the Habsburgs and the Bourbons. After that, it is worth seeing the Jardín de los Frailes (Friars' Garden), the Casita del Príncipe and the Casita del Infante, the Real Coliseo de Carlos III, a stroll through the town centre and, out in nature, the Bosque de La Herrería with the Silla de Felipe II (Philip II's Seat) and Mount Abantos. It makes a full-day trip at the foot of the Sierra de Guadarrama.

It is worth clearing this up before you go: San Lorenzo de El Escorial, where the monastery is, and El Escorial, lower down, where the train station is, are different municipalities, although they are neighbours. San Lorenzo grew up around the monastery, on the slopes of Mount Abantos, and keeps an elegant centre of cobbled streets, stone houses and views over the Madrid plain. If you are staying in the lower town, we also pick up in El Escorial.

A masterpiece of the Spanish Renaissance, given its final design by Juan de Herrera, the monastery is at once a basilica, royal pantheon, palace, library and convent. Its austerity gave its name to a style, the Herrerian. Highlights of the visit include:

• The basilica, with its huge dome and the high altarpiece.
• The Royal Pantheon, where most Spanish monarchs since Charles I lie, and the Pantheon of the Infantes.
• The Royal Library, one of the most beautiful rooms in Spain, with its frescoed vault and thousands of historic volumes.
• The palaces: Philip II's austere rooms and the more ornate apartments of the Bourbons.
• The painting galleries, with works by great masters.

Allow several hours to see it at a relaxed pace, and check the visiting conditions on the official Patrimonio Nacional website before you go. If you are interested in royal palaces, our visit to the Royal Palace of Madrid is the perfect complement.

Jardín de los Frailes

The landscaped terraces to the south of the monastery, with geometric hedges and pools, offer one of the most famous views of the building and the landscape.

Casita del Príncipe and Casita del Infante

Two small pleasure palaces built in the eighteenth century for the princes of Charles III's family. The Casita del Príncipe, in the lower part beside its gardens, and the Casita del Infante, in the upper part, are refined examples of Neoclassical architecture.

Real Coliseo de Carlos III and the streets of the centre

The town's historic theatre, with an Italian-style interior, still puts on performances. Around it, the streets of the centre are packed with restaurants, café terraces and shops, with good views from the viewpoints next to the monastery.

From San Lorenzo it is easy to keep exploring the mountains: Zarzalejo, to the west, is a quiet mountain village; to the north-east, Guadarrama opens the way to the mountain passes; and to the south, the town of Valdemorillo combines wooded pastures and heritage, as we explain in what to see in Valdemorillo. If you have a long layover and are considering nearby historic cities, also look at the idea of visiting Segovia, Toledo or Ávila on a layover.

From Madrid you can take the train to El Escorial station, from where you have to go up to the town, or an intercity bus. From Barajas, public transport means crossing the capital and several changes. If you are flying in for a short break or you live in the area, the taxi between San Lorenzo de El Escorial and the airport takes you directly at a fixed fare, without depending on timetables, including for early-morning departures.